Current Issue

September/October  2010 | Volume 25, Number 5

New wine production methods, and reinvention of some more tried and true techniques, are major themes across several of the articles on offer in this issue.
In Dr Richard Smart’s regular Smart Thinking on Viticulture column, he defends conventional viticulture, saying its practices are under “some form of not-so-subtle attack”. While the Journal is a supporter of all grapegrowing techniques, Smart gives his view on increasingly emerging alternative methods being used in the Australian and New Zealand wine industries that emphasise the vineyard ecosystem, and asks questions of ‘organic’, ‘biodynamic’ and ‘conventional’ viticulture.
Focussing on the ‘new’, Kathleen Quealy, owner and chief winemaker of Quealy Wine and Balnarring Vineyard, in the Mornington Peninsula region, reflects on how she became aware of white Italian winegrape Friulano and the joys and challenges it continues to bring her and husband Kevin McCarthy in the winery and marketplace.
Oak and maturing wine is one of the oldest and most accepted marriages in the world wine industry. Since the recent local surge in popularity of fresh, unoaked Sauvignon Blanc, we sought insight from some of Australia’s leading producers of Chardonnay - a traditionally oaked varietal - about how their application of wood to wine has altered, and what their customers think about it.
Keeping on with the theme of fresh varietals, this issue’s Riesling Varietal Report saw young examples of the wine from Australia and New Zealand shine in the tasting associated with the feature. In addition to the introductory interview with Jeffrey Grosset, of Grosset Wines, in the Clare Valley, several producers from both sides of the Tasman share their stories of how they get the most from their Riesling vineyard, maintaining that standard in the winery and in marketing the end result, either via on-premise or in-house sales efforts. Each winery has its favoured techniques, and all are enjoying producing quality Riesling, in their own style.
The Central Ranges geographical indication of New South Wales, encompassing Orange and Cowra, is in focus this issue. As Debra Pearce reports following her recent visit to Orange, its winemakers are getting the most out of opportunities to create regionally-distinct wines using traditional varieties, and collectively believe that the region is poised for growth in the near future. We also hear from Tom and Alison Stephens, of Cowra, about their experience in the industry and how enjoyable life continues to be while raising three young children and making every effort to keep their vineyard consultancy business family-owned, amidst challenging times.
This is my last issue of the Journal before starting maternity leave, with my first baby due in November. Thank you to the clients, readers, contributing writers, tasting panellists and especially my in-house colleagues for adding to the fun that has been a key part of producing each issue since I began my tenure with the publication six years ago. Future editorial enquiries should be directed to assistant editor Sonya Logan at sonya@winetitles.com.au. Many long-time customers and supporters of Winetitles will know Sonya from the other roles she has managed in her more than 17 years with the company and its partner organisation Ryan Publications. Titles previously under Sonya’s editorship have included the Wine Industry Journal’s sister publication Australian Viticulture and stable mate Australian & New Zealand Grapegrower & Winemaker.

AWRI REPORT

• AWRI researchers, including sensory research manager Leigh Francis, report on the findings from its recent composition-sensory-consumer studies that show many consumers are very sensitive to low levels of faults or off-flavours, such as cork taint or bitterness.

CENTRAL RANGES REGIONAL FOCUS

• Orange grape and wine producers believe the secret to their consistent quality is the elevation of the vineyard plantings. It seems the vines are not the only things growing up, with the region’s members collectively believing it holds great potential for growth.

OAK

• In response to the popularity of Sauvignon Blanc in the Australian wine market, Chardonnay producers have been adjusting their style to make a wine that is lighter, fresher and more elegant. The Journal asked several of Australia’s best Chardonnay makers whether their use of oak has also altered in recent vintages, and about the responses they’ve received from consumers in return.

OPINION

• President of the Margaret River Wine Industry Association, Nigel Gallop, says the proposed Vasse Coal Project would ultimately be detrimental to the region’s wine brand.

RIESLING VARIETAL REPORT

• In the past decade, Australian Riesling has undergone a positive change in image, with dry wines now accepted as the national style. Premier Riesling maker Jeffrey Grosset this year marked the 30th vintage of his Grosset Springvale and Grosset Polish Hill Rieslings, and talked to the Journal about the history of the variety in the local industry and what he thinks about its new reputation as a high quality varietal.

SMART THINKING ON VITICULTURE

• Dr Richard Smart gives his stance on the approaches of some sections of the viticultural community towards so-called ‘organic’, ‘biodynamic’ and ‘conventional’ grapegrowing methods.

THE KEY FILES

• Keeping with the Chardonnay theme, we publish the first in a two-part series by Tony Keys about the current and future state of the variety. The article summarises feedback from around 30 companies representing all sectors of the industry and producers of all sizes.

WINEMAKER IN PROFILE

• Katnook Estate winemaker Wayne Stehbens has been in charge of the brand’s portfolio since 1979 and says he would like to see the exceptional quality of the Coonawarra wine region recognised worldwide.

Regulars

• AWRI Report
• Jonathan Scott
• Opinion
• Richard Smart
• New Varieties, New Opportunities
• The Key Files
• WFA
• AWBC
• Varietal Report
• Winetitles Bookstore
• PP Bradshaw